We're back for another week with useful information to help you take care of your hair and have a beautiful, shiny, and healthy mane. 

And as always, I bring you news, trends, and products that will help and facilitate your daily care routine, but above all, to choose the right product according to the needs of your hair. 

As a hairdresser passionate about hair care, it is essential to demystify the terms and products we use every day. In the world of hair beauty, terms like "daily conditioner," "deep treatments," and "leave-in bond builder conditioners" are often presented to us, but understanding the difference between them can be like untangling a complicated knot. 

A few months ago, I talked about the Molecular Technology of Hair Bond Building products, which in 2023 was a trend among the most important launches in the hair care industry, especially within hair products. 

In 2024, the trend continues, but so do the doubts about what it really is, what it's for, and what the difference is from other products, so let me clear up the doubts and shed light on these three types of essential products for hair care.

DAILY CONDITIONER
Daily Nutrition for Your Hair

Let's start with the daily conditioner. Designed for use after shampooing, apply it and leave it on for 2 to 3 minutes, make sure to rinse it well. Its main function is to detangle the hair, seal the cuticle, and add moisture. Its lightweight formula leaves no greasy residue on the hair, making it perfect for frequent use. They are ideal for all hair types and are especially beneficial for those struggling with frizz and dryness. Remember that conditioner should not be applied to the roots, always from mid-length to ends as it can make your scalp oily.

DEEP TREATMENTS
Intensive Therapy for Your Mane

The spa for your hair. Designed to provide hydration and repair damage, deep treatments are an excellent way to revitalize dry, damaged, or over-processed hair. Deep treatments are more concentrated and richer in repairing ingredients such as proteins, and nourishing oils like cocoa extract, macadamia oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, among others. They are applied after shampooing and left on for a longer period, usually from 10 to 30 minutes, to allow the ingredients to penetrate deeply into the hair fiber and repair the hair from the inside out, some can be left on overnight. You can apply heat by wearing a plastic cap and a towel. I recommend that if you use heat tools daily or frequently, or if your hair is highly processed, you use them frequently as your hair needs an extra dose of nutrition.

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LEAVE-IN BOND BUILDER CONDITIONERS
Recovery for Damaged Hair

And the cherry on top in terms of trend and technology are leave-in bond builder conditioners. These are not like any other leave-in conditioner; they are composed of cutting-edge ingredients and technology that serve a specific function, which is to rebuild hair bonds (bond builders). These products are designed to strengthen and rebuild keratin bonds in the hair, which helps prevent damage and breakage. Unlike traditional conditioners or deep hydration treatments, leave-in conditioners are left on the hair and not rinsed out. They are formulated with special ingredients such as proteins, amino acids, and peptides that adhere to the hair structure and reinforce its integrity, almost like virgin hair in some cases. In other words, they are a kind of glue for the split ends and damaged strands of your hair. These leave-in bond builder conditioners are ideal for damaged, fine, or breakage-prone hair and can be especially beneficial after chemical or heat treatments. Something very important, if your ends are too damaged and split, I recommend that you first trim them and then start your care routine with this type of product.

Let's talk about the types of INGREDIENTS that leave-in bond builder conditioners are composed of. 

The main types of ingredients that build hair bonds are usually specific proteins, amino acids, and peptides. This cocktail works together to recover and make your hair healthier, shinier, and more beautiful. Here I explain what each of these types of ingredients is.  

PROTEINS

Proteins are essential for hair health and fiber building; they are like bricks or blocks in a wall. Keratin is the protein that forms hair. Generally, hair fiber building products (bond builders) contain hydrolyzed proteins like keratin or rice, for example, which strengthen the hair from the inside. It is important that it is hydrolyzed, meaning it could retain water which means that hydration for your hair is better deposited.

HYDROLYZED KERATIN PROTEIN

Keratin is a key fibrous protein in hair, and the hydrolyzed form can penetrate the hair cuticle to strengthen and repair it from the inside. It can be found in leave-in conditioners and hair treatments, usually in concentrations of around 2 to 5%.

HYDROLYZED RICE PROTEIN

It is beneficial for hair for several reasons. It strengthens the hair, repairs damage, increases elasticity, hydrates, and is for all hair types. It contains a certain percentage of amino acids which help strengthen the hair structure from the inside out.

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HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN

This protein is known for its repairing and conditioning properties. It helps strengthen the hair, reduce breakage, and improve manageability. It is commonly found in leave-in conditioners and treatment products, with typical concentrations between 2 and 4%.

AMINO ACIDS

Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins and play a fundamental role in hair repair and regeneration. Some specific amino acids, such as arginine, cysteine, and proline, are known for their repairing and fortifying properties for hair. These amino acids can help rebuild keratin bonds and improve hair elasticity and strength.

Arginine is a key amino acid for hair health, as it stimulates blood circulation in the scalp, thus promoting healthy hair growth. It also strengthens the hair and improves its elasticity. Hair products may contain arginine in concentrations of approximately 1 to 2%.

Cysteine is a sulfur-rich amino acid that is part of the structure of keratin in hair. It helps strengthen and repair keratin bonds, resulting in stronger and more resilient hair. Hair products may contain cysteine in concentrations of around 0.5 to 1%.

Proline is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in collagen synthesis, an important protein for hair and skin structure. It helps strengthen the hair and maintain its structure. It is found in hair products in concentrations of approximately 0.5 to 1%.

PEPTIDES

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that can penetrate deeper into the hair structure and provide specific benefits. Hair-strengthening peptides are designed to bond to damaged areas of the hair and strengthen its internal structure. These peptides can help improve hair strength, reduce breakage, and promote overall healthier hair.

COPPER PEPTIDES 

These peptides stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the scalp, promoting healthy hair growth and strengthening the hair from the root. They are found in hair products in concentrations of around 0.1 to 0.5%.

KERATIN PEPTIDES

These peptides help rebuild keratin bonds in the hair, strengthening its internal structure and reducing breakage. They can be found in conditioners, treatments, and hair serums in concentrations of approximately 1 to 2%.

COLLAGEN PEPTIDES

Collagen peptides help improve hair elasticity and hydration, leaving it soft and flexible. They are used in hair products in concentrations of around 1 to 2%.

When combined in appropriate formulations, these ingredients can work synergistically to rebuild and strengthen the hair from the inside, helping to restore its health, shine, and natural elasticity. It is important to note that results may vary depending on the current condition of the hair and the regularity of product use.

It is important to consider that the percentages of these ingredients may vary depending on the specific formulation of the product and the brand. It is always recommended to carefully read the list of ingredients and follow the usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. 

Information is the key to conscious hair care and tackling problems with the right product. 

You always must use a conditioner after shampooing, except on rare occasions when you apply a treatment or a leave-in bond builder conditioner. 

When using a bond builder, wait 5 minutes for it to act and then style as usual. If you use any other leave-in conditioner, I recommend using conditioner after shampooing and then the leave-in. 

If you have any doubts or would like me to talk about a particular topic, send me a direct message to my IG @leonardorocco1

Until next week!

- ROCCO